The Temple Mount with the Dome of the Rock in the center
The Dome of the Rock has a dome covered with real gold donated by the late King Hussein of Jordan, costing 30 million English pounds. The rest of it is a bluish structure since it is covered in ceramics. The Eastern gate could be seen in the Temple Mount wall.
Eastern Gate is in the Center
The eastern gate is closed and has been since the Byzantine era. In 614AD the Persians came in and destroyed churches and since the population of the area had been decreased the gate was blocked up. Shortly thereafter, the belief started that this will be reopened when the Messiah comes. As an added protection the Muslims have put a cemetery in front of it to bock the messiah since Jewish priests can't walk through a cemetery. However, to be safe, in case they are wrong, since they are so close, those buried there will be the first to be resurrected. It is actually for this reason there are Jewish and Christian cemeterys on Mount Olives very near the Eastern gate. Near the Dome of the Rock is the Al-Aqsa mosque. This is reportedly where Muhammad landed when he made the jump on his wonder horse from Mecca to here, he then dismounted and went and prayed at the rock, under the Dome of the Rock, and ascended to heaven where he spoke with god before coming back and preaching it to the world. Near there is Domitian Abby, this is traditionally where King David is buried and the location of the last supper.
We then started walking down Palm Sunday road, this is where Jesus purportedly came on his entrance to Jerusalem. While probably not exactly, it is likely it is near there because the landscape hasn't changed much since then. Along the way we came to the Church of Dominus Flavus. There we primarily talked about the burial process. Sarcophagi were used by other cultures in this manner, but the Jews would dig a grave in the solid rock for a family, and it would be reused. After several years the bodies would have decomposed to a sufficient level the bones would be placed in a stone box called an ashuary, this would be there permanent place for the remains, the tomb could then be reused.
Tomb entrance in the back with Ashuaries in the front
It is interesting to note by the size of the boxes, they are too short for many modern day people's femur bone to fit in it, so they were smaller people back then. Our walk from there ended at the church at the Garden of Gethsemane from yesterday.
We then got in the bus and headed up to the Lions gate, once we got off the bus and were walking there we noticed on the old walls the star of david decoration. Mishi said that at the time it wasn't the star of david, but simply a geometric design, it evolved over time to the meaning it has today, as did the swastika or pentagram. It started in the middle ages as a derogatory symbol for Jews, but they have embraced it and it is the Jewish symbol known around the world today. The Lions Gate was built by Suliman the Magnificent in 1517AD. According to legend he had a dream about two lions tearing each other (or him?) apart and his seers told him it meant he should rebuild the walls of Jerusalem if he didn't want that to happened to him so he did and he put the lion symbol on the gate. In all reality the Lion is just a symbol of power and royalty, as it is known all around the world. This gate is also called St. Stephens gate, though it doesn't mean much since it was built far after the stoning of Stephen.
From there we entered into the compound of St. Anne's church and saw the remains of the pools of Bethesda. The pools of Bethesda were originally built as a water supply for the vast number of pilgrims coming to Jerusalem several times a year for different holidays, since water is scarce in this region the locals didn't want to give up there personal water supply to these pilgrims. Bethesda was one of three locations built for this purpose. This was the location of the healing of the lame man by Jesus on the Sabbath and riling up the rabbinical establishment over it. This was really very much an internal conflict. This was a young rabbi making decisions about the sabbath and what could be done on it, this was a decision reserved only for the highest rabbis. They were worried about his freedom in teaching that was different from the establishment. On this sight a church was built by the Byzantines as they were looking for any site to build a church on that was connect to Jesus. They built a basilica over the pools, while they weren't functional, they were still accessible.
Pools of Bethesda
Also at this sight is St. Anne's church, it is a crusader structure and is named after the traditional mother of Mary. Here is one of the few sculptures in the world with Mary as the child rather than the mother, though she has an adult's face as Jesus does in the classic iconic work of religious paintings of the virgin Mary and baby Jesus.
Mother of Mary and Mary
It is one of the most impressive crusader structures in the country, and in doors has very neat acoustics with an interesting echo. We had the opportunity to sing in there, which sounded neat. The church is currently run by a French organization called the White Fathers, they also do other work around the world. After visiting there we stepped outside, it was fascinating to hear the singing coming from inside still, but to then hear the muslim midday call to prayer sounding across the city. It was an interesting dichotomy and coexistence.
From there we began the walk of the Via Dolorosa. This is latin for the way of agony/grief/sorrow.
Walking down the beginning of the Via Dolorosa
It is the traditional route that Christ followed from the Praetorium to Golgotha. This path is about 20-30 feet above an old road below it, so except for height much of the path is probably close to what it was, thought the early church didn't attach a lot of significance to it so there isn't much old tradition to follow, the current route was developed by the Franciscans. This route assumes the Jesus was judged at the castle of Antonia on the NW corner of the Temple Mount, though the location of the Praetorium is argued. It could be at the castle of Antonia or Herod's Palace. There is pavement along the castle of Antonia that would have worked, while none has been found near Herod's palace. Though it is also thought Pilate might have liked the spaciousness of Herod's palace since he was used to living at Caeserea Phillipi on the sea.There are 14 stations, or locations, along the way commemorating the events in this walk of Jesus.' This idea of stations originally started in Europe by the Church for those too poor to journey to the Holy Land, it was a way for them to remember and follow along. However, when they did come to the Holy Land they expected these stations to be there, so they were created. There are 9 stations along the route and 5 in the church of the Holy Sepulchre.
The first stop is where Jesus was condemned to death, each station along the road is marked by a discus with a roman numeral indicating the number. The 2nd station is when Jesus takes up the cross, it is marked by two Fransiscan chapels; the chapel of the condemnation and the chapel of the flagellation. The 3rd station is when Jesus falls under the cross the first time, this station is more of a devotional type station, it isn't based on an event that is known for sure, but rather an Old Testament passage. It is at a corner in the road near a Polish chapel. The 4th station again is a devotional type station and is where Jesus meets his mother, there is a small Armenian chapel here. The 5th station is where Simon the Cyrenian is forced to carry the cross, this is in the Bible. It is marked by a Franciscan oratory before ascending steeply to Golgotha. The 6th station is another devotional stop where supposedly Veronica wipes the sweat from Jesus' face, there is a small chapel and altar there. The 7th stop is also a devotional stop where it claims Jesus fell for the second time. There is a Roman column in a Franciscan chapel to mark the spot. The 8th station is where Jesus consoles the women of Jerusalem. This is in the Bible and is marked by a Latin cross on the wall of a Greek monastery. Again another devotional stop for the 9th station where it is claimed Jesus fell for the third time. There is a Roman column there to mark the spot. Near is the apse and roof of the the church of the Holy Sepulchre. The 10th station is the first of the five within the basilica church of the Holy Sepulcher. It is where Jesus is stripped of his garments, though this particular action is based on an old testament passage and is more devotional in nature. To mark it there are stairs leading up to a small chapel. The 11th station is Jesus being nailed to the cross, there is a shrine here to commemorate this. The 12th station is where Jesus died on the cross, it is marked by and ornate Greek altar over the place where Jesus cross was. There is also supposed to be a large crack in the bedrock there from the earthquake after he died. The 13th station is when Jesus is taken down from the cross, is marked by a large stone where Jesus was purportedly laid after his death. Finally is the 14th station where Jesus was laid in the tomb, it is in its own chapel under the main dome of the church of the Holy Sepulcher, it is really the focus of the entire basilica.
The location of the church of the Holy Sepulcher is primarily here because it is the purported burial place of Jesus. While the Garden of the Tomb is another possible location of his burial site, it is highly likely this is actually where he is buried. It was outside of the city walls at the time of Jesus and was a quarry at the time. Other tombs have also been fond in this area. Services have been held here since before the time the Romans conquered Jerusalem. Also, the Romans built a temple to Jupiter here in an effort to discourage Christian services here. The Christian population wasn't dispersed like the Jews when the Romans took over, so they have been able to be around to keep traditions alive. These facts all strongly point to this being the actual place of his burial. It was during the time of the Byzantines that the church was first built. St. Helena, mother of the current Byzantine ruler, wanted to see the place of Jesus' burial and when she came to this tomb she had workers dig away all the rock from the sides of the tomb and leave the tomb standing as a piece of rock with the tomb inside all by itself. Then the chapel and basilica were built around it.
Chapel in the Basilica with the tomb remains inside
It was destroyed in 1009 and the rebuilt be the crusaders in 1099. It was later destroyed again and then rebuilt by the Franciscans in 1555. It is today controlled by 3 sects of Christianity; Catholic, Armenian, and Greek Orthodox. Sadly they are rather contentious with each other, they each have their own portion of the church to use and times for services and worship, but there is a lot of tension between them. In fact, a Muslim holds the key to the church so they don't have to figure which one of them gets to. The family of the key holder passes down the job within the family from father to son.
The Muslim Keeper of the Church Key(Right)
There is a classic story of this tension, one of the monks saw a broken tile and told his assistant to get it fixed, when it got fixed the other two sects were angry for not being consulted. It went all the way to the Israeli government who told them to take out the fix and put the old one in. However, once they had all been consulted later and agreed together, it was again fixed. Another story, there is a ladder above the entrance that has been there for 150 years. The ledge it is on is owned by one, the window by another, and the ladder by the third. The other two wouldn't let the third use their property to get it. Though now with this in particular, it seems as though it isn't a big deal now, but is left anyways, this is partly because in a recent issue of Biblical Archeology Review (BAR), there is a picture of it moved to a window next to the original one, then moved back to its original window. The division among the 3 sects is rather sad. Certainly there is merit in understanding and debating theological issues that aren't essential to salvation, and those things should be sought out with all effort, but having such division within essentially the same claimed religion with similar basic beliefs is sad.
Entrance to the Holy Sepulcher Church with Ladder on Upper Righthand Window
The pilgrims that come here often come for a very religious experience. When we went into the church it was interesting to see people getting down and rubbing the rock while praying where Jesus' was purportedly laid, or burning incense. They are coming for this religious high or trying to take years off purgatory, it was an interesting feeling. Coming from a protestant background it is a little different for me in that we place little importance on icons and locations, but for me this was just a historic place to see in awe for the age and historicity and engineering of the place, and also thinking that is very close to where Jesus walked and died probably, but it wasn't a religious experience so much. I know that God is the same and accessible anywhere in the world, the location is irrelevant. It has been very interesting going to these religious sites on this trip; I find them fascinating because of their age and history behind them, but not in a particularly religious way, religion isn't about emotions.
We went back down to Ben Yahudda street, I somehow was put in co-charge with Colin, which worked out alright. We got everyone down and back safely. While walking down there we talked for awhile with a security guard in front of the Mount Zion Hotel restaurant. It was interesting, he emigrated from Washington state to Israel about 10 years ago. He lived for a few years in College Station, so he kind of knew where Tyler, TX was which was neat. We then did some shopping and found some Texas A&M Keepas and then had coffee at the same coffee shop, quite enjoyable.
A lot of Pita Bread going down the street
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