Greece Trip: Day 8

Monument at Thermopile

Day 8: March 17, 2011

Mountains at Thermopile

Today was primarily a travel day driving 540km from Thessaloniki in the north back down to Athens for a couple days before heading back home. While it was mainly driving we stopped at Thermopile on the way. This is the place of the famed stand of the 300 Spartans. We had a presentation on the event while there. It is 480BC and King Xerxes of Persia is in Greece trying to take over. 10 years perviously King Darius of Persia had sent messengers to the city-states of Greece demanding their subservience. Some obeyed, others didn't, including Athens and Sparta. Now Athens simply put the ambassadors on trial but Sparta threw them down a well (like in the movie 300). This angered Kind Darius. While he was unable to subdue them at Marathon at that time he didn't want to forget them so he had a servant remind him daily of the Greeks. So, now King Xerxes is here and is marching south towards Athens. The Greek navy is guarding the straights of artemis to force the army to march south and the only way to travel through the mountains is through the pass of Thermopile. While it is now farther from the sea, it used to be nearly right next to it. However, the Persians came during a Spartan holiday and the Spartans wouldn't go to war during that time. They went to the oracle and Delphi and were told if they delayed the Persians a king of Sparta would die. King Leonidas took a group of 300 Spartans, the royal guard, to thermopile to buy time. They brought with them about 7000 other Greeks. When the Persians arrived the saw the Greeks there simply waiting rather nonchalantly, so they waited 4 days suspicious that something was up. They attacked on the fifth day and fought for 2 days with the Greeks soundly defeating the Persians. Then a traitor told the Persians of a smaller mountain pass that would allow them to get behind the Greeks. Leonidas knew about this and had stationed 1000 men there to guard it but they were caught by surprise and were defeated, though they sent a messenger to Leonidas to warn him. So, he sent away the other Greeks and kept his 300 to buy them time. However, 1100 other Greeks stayed with him to defend the pass. The Persians came and threw themselves upon them suffering huge casualties. Xerxes pulled back his men and used his archers whose many arrows were said to blot out the sun. It is even in the historical account that when a Greek heard that he said, fine, then we'll fight in the shade. In the end all the Greeks were killed. This was a decisive defeat for the Greeks. However, this battle shows two things: that excellent training counts for a lot even when outnumbered 100 to 1 and the effect of patriotism and fighting for one's homeland.

Monument with Inscription "Foreigners, Go to the
Lesadimonians(?) and tell them we stand by here for
our values" where bodies were found.

     There is today a monument at a place it is believed there used to be a monument of sorts and bodies have been found. It says “foreigner go to the lesadimonians(?) and tell them we stand by here for our values" because none of them made it out alive. While certainly glorified, this incident is powerful in that it shows a group of men standing by their convictions even unto death. Because of the oracle King Leonidas went into this expecting to die, even before surrounded, yet he still went. His men still went and those 1100 other Greeks stayed knowing they faced certain death because they desired there freedom so much. It is also interesting to note that though 1100 other Greeks stayed, the 300 Spartans got the credit and glory for this story trough history, they are the ones that people know about. It is interesting how history that we commonly know isn't always accurate and sometimes those who deserve to be remembered, or forgotten. All in all, a powerful story. This, and other things on this trip and elsewhere kind of make me wonder why warfare is more or less glorified in basically all cultures throughout time and even most religions. While there are many cultures that don't necessarily enjoy war, those who fight are respected and seen in an honorable, and sometimes glorified, light (though sometimes on and off depending on circumstances). I wonder why this is, if this is part of human nature or natural desires. If it is because of the innate recognition of those standing for and being willing to die for what one believes in and the protection of innocents that it is seen in that light. I'm not sure, but something to think about.

Leonidas and I
(Inscription above says "Come and get them [weapons]"
which he said to the Persians when told to lay them down)

We also had a presentation on slavery in the first century AD today. It was different than slavery as it was in modern times. Back then often nearly 30% of the population would be slaves (or more than 50% in Sparta). They would be in one of the 3 roles, agriculture, mining, or household. They were usually the results of warfare and being prisoners of war and being put to use. They might also be debtors or children of families who sold them for money. They would usually be sold in the agora to the highest bidder, though extra valuable salves might be sold in private. Their price was based on age, origin, physique, intelligence, and education. The agricultural mining slaves were what their name sounds like and household slaves might be in domestic roles or education/”nanny” roles for children, like the pedagogue talked about a few days ago, or even craftsman or assistants and shopkeepers. If a slave was freed, for whatever reasons decided solely by his master, his name would be carved onto a wall in a public place (like at Delphi) to create a record of their freedom.

Tonight we are back in Athens for one more day of seeing museums before leaving. We also spent some time tonight reflecting on what we've learned on this trip and the experience that we've had.